The Scented Pilgrimage...

[Scented Blood]

Mava decides he wants to go right away for stoning.
We put a small posse together and we are off. Takes just over an hour to get to the Jamarat and the Talbiyah in the tunnels is deafening.
Awesome scenes of people walking towards the Jamarat. You can tell the first timers from the look on their faces.

In the distance I can see the new train. They trying it out with 3000 VIP’s on board. Amazing how they can get a train running but they can’t sort out the wudu facilities in Muzdalifah.

The Jamarat is easy Alhumdulillah. As always we manage to get right up close to it.
Walk back takes a bit longer as we go a different route. Crazy heat but Mava gets us back.

It is amazing the little things you don’t notice in life. Like ice left over in your cup after a drink. Normally you would leave it but not here. Here ice is like gold and can win you many friends.
The meals are very basic but when you hungry they taste so good.
Humans can survive on a lot less. We just choose not to.

You see some tents with mattresses as thick as the ones you have on your beds back home and you think it’s a luxury when all it is, is a mattress. People come for Hajj but moan when they don’t get a five star holiday.

We finally get confirmation on the Qurbani so we snip a bit of hair to come out of ihram.
Really great feeling. Comb comes out and beard gets dealt with.

Mava is a huge blessing. He is like my personal Bat Signal. No matter where I am he finds me. Such a weight off my mind.
We call on him to help us find a barber to shave our heads. In the daytime they were queuing up to cut hair but now not one in sight. Mava finds us two brothers who cut our hair. Great job and a great feeling.

Swansea lad admits that he was upset with Mava for bringing us back the long way as he had his little son with him. After talking to some people in our group, he realises that if we had come back the way we went it would have taken a lot longer than it did. Nice of him to admit that.

I got hunger pains but cannot find a biryani seller to save me life. When you don’t want something you find lots of it. Have to settle for chips instead.

Moshy, our roomie, owns a shop back home and from the looks of things, he has brought most of the shop with him. Oh the treats we have!

 

[Scented Blood]

Second day Jamarat.
We go the long way but it feels like ten minutes. Amazing.
Mum is really in her element here.

We get to the Jamarat and decide to go up to the third level.
We are quickly faced with mum’s biggest fear. Escalators.
She hates them but has no choice.
She holds my hand and I help her up all eight of them one after the other.
We arrive and with complete ease again we do the stoning and make our way back.
The guards are a lot more organised and do not allow you to hang around to take photos or even go back on yourself.

On the way back we find an old couple lost. The woman is in absolute pieces and wailing.
I smile as I watch mum comfort her and take her by the hand. Mum is so calm that she is reassuring others. Another indication to the huge mercy Allah has bestowed upon us.
Mava leaves me and mum while he takes them back to their camp. He comes back for us and we off again.
We go a little bit further and find another four people who have been lost since yesterday. Mava helps them also and we make our way back to the camp.

We are really fortunate to have one of the imams for Islam Channel in our group. I was always impressed by how he conducted himself on television and in person he is even more amazing. May Allah give me manners like him. We benefit from him greatly.

We have a new member in our little group. A brother from Birmingham. He is not really a new member as I have seen him many, many times during this trip and we have shared some moments. He has been a cooling to my eyes each time. We shall call him Mr C. A science teacher by trade. He is a gentle giant but solid.
There are many reasons I love him and one of them is that he implements what he knows.
The first time we met was at Jeddah Airport and it was him who gave the bottle of water to my mum (if you recall, I mentioned this at the beginning). I will never forget that. It is fitting that was our first encounter.

My new nickname is ‘Mava Junior’. I don’t get it myself but the lads like it so who am I to deprive them?

Zinger wants to go on an adventure and after haggling with a couple of perfume sellers we find one that we decide we are going to work for, free of charge. We sit on either side and go at it Apprentice style.
I don’t think that bloke has ever sold more stock then he did at that time. People were flocking around and the great thing about crowds is that they attract bigger crowds. The bloke just could not bag the stuff quick enough.
Everyone wants the bargains we offering and we joke all the way. It doesn’t matter the nationality or the tongue; a laugh and a smile is currency in every country of the world.

Zinger is a blessing in himself. He is firm but very fair. Truly the souls are like conscripted soldiers.

There is not much I will not do but with Zinger by my side I know nothing is safe and there is nothing I will not try.
Few people have the effect on me that Zinger has.

By the close of business, the chap’s wallet is bulging. Me and Zinger clock out for salah.

 

[Scented Blood]

Mava comes up with a plan.
He wants us to go to Mecca tonight for tawaf, sai and come back before Fajr. I think it would make a lot of sense and thankfully mum agrees.

After Isha, Mava tell us to get ready as the rain is coming. Huge winds start the proceedings by blowing away at the tents and the dust gets right into your eyes and face.
This is it. I knew it. So many people kept saying that the hard part was over and we are almost home. I kept telling them about 2004 when we had finished and were flooded out. It is not over till Allah wills it to be over.
I am so worried we are going to pay for other’s words.
We start to walk with the thunder and lightning starting.
I am making non-stop dua that it holds as we are in no man’s land with no cover and mum is with us.
Guards are not letting us cut through the camps. If they were not Muslim and if I wasn’t on Hajj they would be getting flung out the way but patience has got me this far so why should I turn my back on it now. We carry on.

The army is clearing the roads and the people are running for cover. At any other time I would have stood there in awe watching the scenes but not now. The beggars are still out and the funny thing is they are carrying on as if nothing is happening.

Really truly, me and mum have got to have this talk about travelling light as these bags are tearing into my shoulders.

Things are getting tough but the rain has not poured down yet. I feel a few heavy drops as an indication of what is on its way.
We manage to walk back to Mecca and see taxis. We flag one down and subhanAllah as soon as get in the rain pours down.
I sit in the car and watch the people take shelter any way they can.
The driver has told us he is going to charge us around £6 for the journey which gets me thinking. That for us is nothing but how many people would not be able to afford that and would have to brave these conditions. Truly so many things in life we take for granted.
The drive takes about half an hour and it’s amazing but all the roads around the Haram are blocked off except for the one we need to get us right to our hotel. I love these mini miracles.

Feels like weeks since I’ve seen this place but in truth, it has been barely three days.
To use a bathroom without queuing behind eight men, power shower, mattress and peace of mind? Priceless.

We have a quick bite to eat and get into the Haram. It is absolutely empty and if I didn’t have mum with me I would have gone for the Black Stone. It’s so empty that we are doing tawaf on the ground floor and I am not even having to hold mum’s hand.
It was so soul enriching.

We go do Sai. I am sad as this will be my last Sai before I leave.
Someone has taken both mine and mava’s slippers. Mum has a good laugh at us both.

We return to the hotel and have a kip. We have a real early start for Mina.

 

[Scented Blood]

We make our way to Mina before Fajr.

We are just mingling with the people, waiting for the time of Jamarat.
It's a lot more peaceful and calmer than the last time I was here.
Speaking of last time, we did the jamarat and had arranged a meeting point if any of our group of around ten people got split. I got there and found we were three brothers short so I told everyone else to wait and I would go and find them. From a far distance, I made out the brothers. I thought I could either go into the crowd and get them or I could shout out to them from where I stood. I opted to shout...
It's an awkward feeling when all of a sudden some 40,000 people stop what they are doing and look right at you...

We let the initial crowds go and we make our way. Again so, so easy. Alhumdulillah.

Our Hajj is officially over and complete. May Allah accept it from us and all those who came to make this journey.

Mava gets big hugs and mum gets big hugs and lots of kisses.

We start the long trek back to Mecca. So many happy faces. Beaming they were. In the tunnels there are gangs of motorbike riders who are ferrying people back and forth for a petty price. Obviously time is of the essence so they going at crazy speeds with their passengers on the back.

We make it back and I attempt to have a Radox foot soak but a friend calls to tell me he is outside. I rush out only to find he had gone. Git. If he wasn’t so dear to me I’d jab him in his ribs when I see him next.

We pray Asr and return to our room.

What happen next was truly amazing.

The rain poured down. It poured and it poured.
People are running for cover and the lightning is flashing.
Unbelievable. If we hadn’t done our tawaf the day before we would have had to do it now in these conditions. Every single thing has gone perfect for us.
Allah is most Just.

The army is blocking the entrances to the Haram but people are forcing their way in.
From our window we watch the scenes. I cannot see a single bit of ground on the third floor. It is just jam packed full of people.
People are returning to the hotel soaked.
Mum and the ladies want tea so I go down to the shopping centre to get some. It’s packed out. Fights break out over the lift. Everyone is going nuts.

We are worried about Zinger. Everyone in our room is accounted for except him.
Few of us are just watching the scenes from the amazing view I found. Nobody speaks. Just transfixed to the view and the scenes.
Tons of umbrellas going round and round.

For Sai, you see people on the top floor running the whole distance.

 

[Scented Blood]

Zinger is back and buzzing.
He says that when the rain started everyone instead of running for cover was trying to get onto the third floor to do tawaf in the rain.

Everyone shattered so we just rest up.

That night Zinger wants to sleep but me and Moshy got other ideas and drag him out. We have a good stint in the massage chairs. Proper hits the spot.

While we have been here we have been making friends with the staff and the security guards. I see one of the guards reading and ask him what it is. He tells me it’s Al-Muwatta by Imam Malik and he gives it to me as a present.
This is brotherhood.

I met up with two amazing brothers. We sit in my amazing view location. They try hard to pretend not to be impressed but I know they are. What felt like a half hour was in fact four hours. Good times.


Wake up for Friday. Body aching. Army seems to have gone. Yesterday’s scenes of chaos seem to be over.

Army are back two hours before Jummah.

Zinger wants me to come with him to see a friend of his. The friend has also brought someone with him. We show them the awesome view and then decide we are going to check out the real big timers in Zamzam Towers.
We go up around another thirty floors and see a fire exit. He who dares wins so we take it. We find some stairs and after that more stairs. We twist and turn until we come out into open air…

We are on the roof of Zam Zam Towers.
We are ON the ROOF of Zam zam Towers!

The green clock is within throwing distance!
The view is out of this world and we can’t believe we are here.

We pray up here. We are just transfixed to the view.
I will never forget this moment. I don’t want to leave as I am scared I will never find this view again.

We have got to try to find this with the lads tomorrow.

I was getting some solid sleep till mum wakes me early in the morning. Some of the ladies have given mum the idea of doing her farewell tawaf now. We get going on the second floor and mum’s energy is amazing.

I am shattered and looking forward to getting some sleep between Zuhr and Asr but apparently we are moving hotels even though we here for one more night only.

Me and mava are just sorting the luggage out in the corridor and for some unknown reason it starts a chain reaction of everyone thinking they need to put their luggage outside as well. Nobody even questioned it. Scary.

 

[Scented Blood]

Zinger has broken my Radox shower gel handle.
Finally I have a case to take to the elder in our room. Zinger must pay! How on earth do you break that?!

I forgot to get the case on trial as Zinger has brought mava a big knife to complete the Crocodile Dundee look.

Me, Zinger and Moshy go for another chair massage. Moshy’s treat. He a top lad. We try to muffle the ‘ohhhh ahhh’ sounds but it’s no good.

Gave Dundee his knife. He loved it.

They move us to the other hotel for one night. It is a major step down but we have absolutely no right to complain. After every single countless blessing bestowed upon us in this journey how could we possibly show any disgust now?
Unfortunately not everyone thinks the same way.

We drop our stuff off and decide to go for one last dinner with mum and mava.

The lads decide that we going to go for the top of the tower view but the problem is four has now turned to nine and the security guard is on the prowl as he nabbed Zinger yesterday when he went without me. Turns out he took his wife and not me. The selfish git.

I get a phone call from Terminator, our roomie, who wants in on the action. I go back to look for him and Swansea lad comes with me also. We find him and go again. We walk up nine floors of stairs to avoid the security guard. We twist and turn and I remember little markers till bingo, we hit the jackpot again.
All the lads are there.
We admire the view for a while. Few want to bring their families tomorrow.

We sit outside the hotel for a while and eat ice cream and watch the world go by.

Hectic last minute bits and bobs. Mum’s new friends all have lists of things that need doing and getting. No prizes for guessing who gets those jobs.

We have gone from a hotel with twelve lifts to a hotel with one lift and everyone is trying to get their luggage out at once.

Few of us go for lunch and ice cream.

I go alone to the Kaaba.
My last tawaf.
My heart is heavy and it pains.
I don’t want to leave you.
I am sorry I haven’t spent more time with you.

 

[Scented Blood]

It’s also my last night with my mava.
For someone who has not been a part of my life since I was two years old he is now a huge part.
We have dinner together and he gives me some golden advice about my future.

Everyone fretting over the weight limit and I bet some serious duas are being made!

Zinger has got us all personalised key rings. Mine says ‘Mava Jr’
I’m going to miss Zinger’s legendary haggling tactics.

We rush round sorting out stuff and then just chatting.

Coaches arrive at 4am. We take our luggage and grab our seats.

The farewell I have been dreading cannot be put off any longer. I have to say goodbye to mava. That moment will live in my mind as long as I live.
Never has a goodbye been more emotional for me. Never.
Even while I write this it hurts me inside.

Coaches try to move off but it’s time for tahajjud. Thousands and thousands of people as far as the eye can see fill the roads. They walk with their prayer mats on their shoulders, forsaking their beds to come at this hour to worship. The most beloved place to every single one.
It was the most fitting farewell to Mecca I could have wished for.

Jeddah with us in no time.
Little bit annoyed as to how the luggage is thrown onto the floor and the battle starts as you fish for what is yours.
No order in the queues but we patiently wait for our turn.
Our check-in bloke is not happy and I am worried he really going to come down hard on the excess luggage but it was the complete opposite and he didn’t care what we had.

We get the boarding passes and just when I thought this had been the most surreal and blessed Hajj ever…

Can you guess who then got business class?

 

[Scented Blood]

Conclusion

Hajj is like a fingerprint meaning that each one is unique. People say it but you have to live it to understand it.

Tomorrow we will go back to our lives and forget valuable lessons. Maybe that was a big part of why I kept this diary.

To live a life of an average person here is more enriching than those who live in the tall high rise towers and enjoy all the perks that come with them.
If you want to know yourself then mix with the people, see what you learn and what you take away.
Once Ibn Masoud (ra) was in a place where nobody knew what he looked like and when he went for water from the well he was pushed and shoved by the people but he was happy as he got to live as a simple soul.
I will never be fit to even stand in his shadow but maybe I understand a little of what he felt as every time you leave the hotel there is an adventure to be had regardless of your background and where you come from.
A smile can open many doors and is understood and welcomed by all. To turn your prayer mat sideways and share with the person next to you can make all the difference.

I would love to come alone just once without to worry about being responsible for someone so that I can really push myself.
I never ever dreamed I would be here for the third time and maybe my seven nieces will need me as a mahram to bring them. Whatever happens I just cannot get enough of it.

You will learn so much about yourself. You will learn so much about others. You will be tested in ways you couldn’t even imagine.

If you think you have patience, you will find out on Hajj.
If you think you love for others what you love for yourself, you will find out on Hajj.
If you think you can cope in challenging situations, you will find out on Hajj.

Test is when you are broken, tired and hungry and you have just found some shade but then someone in more need comes along.

Test is when you have swollen feet, your bed is singing your name and an elderly couple come to ask you to help them complete tawaf and sai.

Test is when you find cold water but your brothers need it also.

Test is when you sit all night trying to keep a good spot for Fajr and someone comes right at the end and tries to share it.

You will appreciate so much more once you are here.
Your health, when you see the condition of some people in the tawaf but yet they drive on determined.
Your wealth, when you see that a man’s dinner depends on your leftovers. That a sister cannot eat what she wants as she is a riyal short.

Many times in life we are comfortable in our worship and measure ourselves by those who do less than us and many times in life we see those who have more then us and we are not content.
The complete opposite of what we should be.

Being here really redresses that balance.

I see hundreds of thousands of people everywhere I look, each one more determined than me to seek the pleasure of Allah. When measured against these giants I fall very short and will really have to pick up my game to keep up.
I see many, many people with a fraction of what I have and you can’t put a price on that contentment.

All these people, so little crowd control but on hearing one voice will form straight lines and move in unison.
Standing together and bowing together. All hungry for the same thing. The pleasure of the One alone who alone deserves to be worshipped.

With regards to my personal journey, I realise one fundamental thing.
After all the worry and stress I put myself through before this journey began there really was no need.

My mother was Allah’s guest and Allah alone looked after her.